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Showing posts with the label Okaukuejo

Guided vehicles in the Luangwa keep driving after dark, and that is why so many people see leopard here.

Most national parks in Africa empty out at sunset. The South Luangwa does the opposite: licensed operators may stay out with a spotlight into the evening, while self-drive visitors have to be off the tracks by dark. That one rule shapes the whole experience, because the animals that are hardest to find in daylight, leopard above all, are exactly the ones that start moving once the light goes. The valley already carries a reputation as one of the finest places in Africa for leopard, and the night drive is the reason so many visitors come away having actually seen one rather than hearing about it at dinner. The other thing Zambia does differently is walking. The modern walking safari was developed in this valley by the conservationist Norman Carr, and most camps still build the day around it: out on foot after breakfast with a guide and an armed scout, back before the heat, then a drive that runs from late afternoon into the dark. Walking is seasonal and camps set their own rules about w...

I would spend my days in Etosha parked at a waterhole rather than driving between them.

Etosha rewards patience more than mileage, which is the opposite of how most people plan a first safari. The park is built around a vast salt pan, dry and blinding white for most of the year, and its name is usually translated as the great white place. Almost nothing lives on the pan itself. What matters is the ring of springs and pumped waterholes around its southern and eastern edges, because in the dry months that water is the only water for a long way. The animals have to come to it, and the whole park quietly funnels towards a handful of drinking points. So you do not go looking. You park, you switch the engine off, and you wait. Most trips begin with a flight into Windhoek and a drive north on tarred road, which is why so many visitors arrive in a hire car rather than on a guided tour. Four gates serve the park: Andersson in the south, Von Lindequist in the east, King Nehale in the north and Galton in the remote west. Gates open at sunrise and close at sunset, and the exact times...