For visitors to Europe, the flight home is covered by the delay rules more often than the flight out

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  Europe's air passenger rights rules on delayed and cancelled flights have a quirk that surprises many travellers from outside Europe. What matters is not your nationality, where you bought the ticket or even which airline you flew, but the direction of travel. A flight leaving an airport in the European Union is covered whatever airline operates it. A flight arriving in the European Union from outside is covered only if a European airline operates it. The same holiday can therefore produce a claim on the way home and nothing on the way out, simply because of whose aircraft you were on. The quickest way to see where a disrupted flight stands is a free calculator for EU flight delay compensation . It asks five things: whether the flight left an EU airport or arrived on an EU airline, the distance band, what happened, how late you reached your final destination and the reason the airline gave. It then shows the flight compensation you may be entitled to per passenger, and links ...

Getting into Cambodia now takes more paperwork than getting into the temples


The temple ticket is the forgiving part of this trip: personalised, strictly enforced, and more generous than almost anyone realises, because each length comes with a window wider than itself. The border is where the admin lives now, and it has quietly grown a step that did not exist a couple of years ago. Sort that first and the temples arrange themselves around the heat instead of fighting it.

Start with entry, because one piece of it is new. Most visitors take the visa on arrival or the electronic visa, single entry for a month, applied for online or bought at the airport; Singaporean travellers, as citizens of a neighbouring bloc, need none at all. On top of that sits the electronic arrival card, now required and submitted in the week before landing, folding the old paper immigration, customs and health slips into one online form with a code for the desk. It is not a visa and does not replace one. The passport wants six months of validity and a blank page. With the paperwork settled, compare flights and hotels for Siem Reap.

Now the angkor pass, which is better designed than its reputation. It sells in three lengths and none means consecutive days: three days used within a ten day window, seven within a month, so a rest day or a morning on the lake costs nothing. The one day version is the only one the sources disagree about, some describing a five day window and others only the day of purchase and the one after, so check the portal first. The pass carries your photograph, staff compare the face to it at every major temple, and one handed to someone else is confiscated with entry refused; it is non transferable and non refundable, which makes the start date a decision rather than a formality. Children under twelve enter free but should carry a passport. There is also a timing trick: buy late in the afternoon, from around a quarter to five, and the evening comes free, with the pass running from the next morning. Cut off times differ by source and the ticket centre out of town closes soon after, so aim early rather than at the line, or buy through the official portal and skip the queue altogether, which is what matters before an angkor wat sunrise start.

Where you sleep sets the commute, and siem reap hotels divide by neighbourhood rather than by price. Riverside and the old French quarter keep colonial style boutique hotels along the river by the Old Market, walkable for dinner and a short ride from the gates. Wat Bo has quieter guesthouses and small pool hotels across the water by the Wat Bo pagoda, better value and calmer at night. The blocks around Pub Street hold hostels and mid range hotels for anyone wanting the noise within stumbling distance. And Charles de Gaulle road, running out towards the park, has larger resort hotels that shave real minutes off a dawn start.

This is a driver and tuk tuk trip rather than a hire car one. A tuk tuk covers both circuits comfortably, costs a fraction of a car and keeps you in the air rather than behind glass; a scooter is legal on the park roads, a car earns its price only for the furthest temples, and an airport transfer is worth pre booking for a late arrival. The small circuit takes in Angkor Wat, Bayon and Ta Prohm and fills a day; the grand circuit picks up the quieter outer temples; banteay srei sits far enough out to be its own half day. Covered shoulders and knees are enforced on the upper level of Angkor Wat and staff do send people back down. Midday heat, not distance, is the real constraint, so split the day around it. A cambodia esim keeps maps and your driver reachable across a complex far bigger than photographs suggest, and cover is worth reading for the heat and the climbing, so compare eSIM plans and travel cover before you pack.

The year divides into dry and wet rather than four seasons. The dry months from about November into February bring the coolest air and the clearest light, and they are the ones to aim for. From March into May the heat becomes the whole story, with the middle of the day unusable on open stone. The wet months from June into October bring afternoon downpours, thin crowds and the greenest temples, at the cost of mud and shorter windows. Personally, I would fix the pass window before the flight dates, because once the temples stop competing with the heat, the rest of the week relaxes.

Q: Do the three days have to be consecutive?

A: No. Three days are used within a ten day window and seven within a month, so rest days cost nothing. Only the one day pass is described differently by different sources, so check the portal.

Q: What do you need before you fly?

A: A visa, unless your passport is exempt, taken online or on arrival, plus the electronic arrival card submitted in the week before landing. The card is not a visa.

Q: Is the pass in your name?

A: Yes. It carries your photograph, staff check it at every major temple, and one used by somebody else is confiscated with entry refused. Passes are also non transferable and non refundable.

Q: How do you get the free sunset?

A: Buy late in the afternoon, from around a quarter to five, and you enter that evening at no charge with the pass running from the next morning. Cut off times vary by source, so arrive early.

Planning your trip to Angkor? Compare before you book.

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