Personally, I would give Vilnius a morning of baroque and an afternoon in its breakaway republic. The old town is one of the largest surviving in this part of Europe, listed by UNESCO and heavy with baroque churches and university courtyards. Then a small bridge takes you into Užupis, an artists' quarter that declared independence on the first of April, with a flag, an anthem and a constitution bolted to a wall in mirrored plaques, guaranteeing the right to be happy, the right to be unhappy, and a dog's right to be a dog.
The airport sits a few kilometres south of the centre, with a train reaching the main station in about seven minutes, among the quickest arrivals in Europe. Prices are low by western standards and the city fills through the short warm summer. Compare flights and hotels for Vilnius at https://destination.chat and remember the old town is small enough that almost any central address works.
Between the two halves there is plenty to look at. Cathedral Square opens beneath the hill and its tower, the Gates of Dawn still draw pilgrims to their icon, and the brick Gothic of Saint Anne's is fine enough that Napoleon is supposed to have wanted to carry it home, a story worth enjoying without believing. The baroque interiors are the real surprise, one crowded with thousands of white stucco figures. This was also a great centre of Jewish learning, and the memorial sites deserve a slow hour.
Where you stay is mostly a matter of quiet. In the old town, boutique and historic hotels sit among the churches and bars. Over the bridge in Užupis, guesthouses and apartment rentals stand along the river among the studios. Near the station, mid-range hotels come cheaper and stay walkable, while across the water in Žvėrynas, apartment rentals and small hotels hide among wooden villas.
The centre walks easily, buses are cheap and no car is worth it. What repays booking is a guided walk, for the baroque and for the Jewish history, and a day at the island castle on its lake. Balloons do fly over this city, one of the few capitals where that is allowed, though air traffic often sends them over the lakes instead and weather cancels them at short notice. You can check guided tour and balloon flight prices at https://destination.chat and treat the flight as a bonus rather than a plan.
In summer, order the cold soup. It arrives an improbable bright pink, made with beetroot and buttermilk, served chilled with a hot potato on the side, and it is the most Lithuanian thing on any menu. That, and the parkland covering half this capital, tells you what kind of city you are in.
Q: What is Užupis in Vilnius?
A: A small artists' quarter across the river that declared itself an independent republic, with a flag, an anthem and a wall-mounted constitution written in a playful spirit. It is a district, not a real state.
Q: Is Vilnius cheap to visit?
A: Yes by western European standards, for food, drink, transport and hotels, though prices in the old town rise through the summer season.
Q: Do I need a car in Vilnius?
A: No. A train links the airport to the centre in minutes, the old town is compact and walkable, and buses and tours cover everything else.
Q: What is the best day trip from Vilnius?
A: The island castle on the lakes at Trakai, easily reached by train or bus, with the archaeological site at Kernavė and the memorial forest at Paneriai as quieter options.
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