Greenland spent decades funnelling every visitor through an old American airbase, and that has just ended.

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Greenland spent decades funnelling every visitor through an old American airbase, and that has just ended. Every international arrival used to land at a former military strip far inland, then transfer to a small propeller aircraft. Now a runway built for jets serves the capital directly from Copenhagen, Reykjavik and Newark, a second airport has opened in the south, and a third is due at the icefjord town. With all three running, most of the country sits within about ninety minutes of one connection. That rebuild is the reason to look now. Check whether the northern airport is operating before planning around it, since the opening has moved more than once, and expect prices that reflect a place where almost everything is imported. Beds are few and fill fast in the short summer. Compare flights and hotels for Greenland at https://destination.chat and build in spare days, because weather cancels flights here as routine rather than misfortune. The icefjord is the headline. A glacier that ...
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A cannon fires over Zagreb every day at noon, and the city still sets its clocks by it.

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A cannon fires over Zagreb every day at noon, and the city still sets its clocks by it. The gun sits in a medieval tower above the Upper Town and has marked midday for well over a century, loud enough to startle anyone unwarned. Below it runs a funicular billed as the shortest public railway of its kind anywhere, joining the old hill town to the nineteenth-century boulevards in about a minute. Two towns, one ride, one bang.

Most visitors to Croatia fly straight past on the way to the coast, which is why this city stays cheaper and calmer than Split or Dubrovnik. An airport shuttle reaches the centre in about half an hour, and trains and buses run to the sea and to neighbouring capitals. Compare flights and hotels for Zagreb at https://destination.chat and weigh a few nights here against another night on the crowded coast.

Be prepared for scaffolding. An earthquake struck not long ago, the cathedral lost part of a bell tower and remains closed under wrapping with years of work ahead, and repairs continue across the old quarters. The tiled roof of the Upper Town's little church has been restored, though its interior opens only in narrow windows, so treat the square as the attraction. Everything else is intact: the produce market under its red parasols above the main square, and a museum built from objects left over by failed love affairs, far better than it sounds.

Where you stay is a matter of hills and noise. Around the main square, mid-range and business hotels put trams and shops at the door. Up in the Upper Town, boutique hotels and apartment rentals sit near the tower and the funicular. Along the bar street of Tkalčićeva, guesthouses and apartments are central and loud, while near the railway station, mid-range hotels face the green parks at gentler prices.

Trams do everything here, cheaply and constantly, and a car is more trouble than it is worth. Guided walks make sense in a city where half the story is recent, and the best day out is the chain of turquoise lakes and waterfalls to the south, a UNESCO site reachable by bus or tour, with baroque towns and hilltop castles north. In December the Christmas market takes over the parks and squares. You can check guided tour and day trip prices at https://destination.chat and book the lakes early in summer.

Stay for a Saturday morning. The whole city dresses up and takes coffee outdoors for hours, seeing and being seen, in a ritual with its own name and no hurry in it. Order the local baked cheese pastry with it, and you will see why people here are unbothered that everyone else drove to the sea.

Q: Is Zagreb Cathedral open to visitors?
A: Not at present. Earthquake damage brought down part of a bell tower and the building remains closed and wrapped in scaffolding, with a restoration expected to run for years.

Q: Is Zagreb worth visiting if you are heading to the Croatian coast?
A: Yes, and it is noticeably cheaper and less crowded, with easy bus and train links to the coast, the lakes and neighbouring capitals.

Q: Do I need a car in Zagreb?
A: No. Trams cover the city cheaply, the centre is walkable, and buses or tours reach the lakes and the castles.

Q: What is the best day trip from Zagreb?
A: The lakes and waterfalls of the national park to the south, a UNESCO site, with the baroque towns and hilltop castles north of the city as quieter alternatives.

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