Morocco's rail network is genuinely good, fast and cheap between the northern cities, and it stops dead at Marrakech. That is the southern terminus. Neither Essaouira nor Agadir has a station, and no line runs into the desert or the mountains either, which quietly undoes the advice that you can string this country together by train. What actually connects the coast is the bus, and the choice of company matters more than the fare does: the national railway's own coach service leaves from beside the Marrakech train station and sets you down at the walls of the Essaouira medina, while the main rival arrives further out and leaves you a taxi ride short. The journey takes about three hours either way. Buy ahead in season, since the good departures fill, and expect a small extra charge for a suitcase in the hold.
The desert needs the same honesty about distance. Merzouga, the dune field on every poster, sits at the far south-eastern edge of the country, and the drive from Marrakech runs most of a day each way over the High Atlas passes rather than the half-day people imagine. That is why the standard trip is sold as three days with two nights rather than an overnight, and why the shorter desert tours go somewhere else entirely and show you stony plains rather than the dunes in the photographs. It is worth comparing flights and accommodation for Morocco at https://destination.chat before you commit to a route, because whether the desert is in or out changes how many nights each city gets.
Where you sleep is a decision about access as much as style. Marrakech's medina keeps riads behind blank walls a few minutes from Jemaa el-Fnaa, where vehicles cannot reach the door and luggage completes the last stretch by handcart. Gueliz, the new town, has modern hotels and apartments a short taxi from the Koutoubia minaret, with a car able to pull up outside. Fes has its own riads and guesthouses buried deep in the old city near the Bou Inania medersa, on lanes narrower still. Essaouira offers guesthouses and apartments inside the ramparts, a short walk from the Skala sea bastion and the fishing port.
Movement between all of it follows a simple division. Trains for the northern cities, buses for the coast, and a guided tour or a private driver for the desert and the mountains, where no scheduled service goes and a self-drive on unfamiliar mountain roads is a lot to take on for a first visit. Shared tours are usually better value than hiring a car for the whole trip, since the vehicle would sit unused during the city days. Petits taxis handle short hops within a city and should be metered; grands taxis run fixed intercity routes and are negotiated. Personally, I would take the train to Fes, the bus to the coast and book the desert as its own thing, rather than trying to make one vehicle serve all four trips. See our guide to transfers and tours at https://destination.chat before you book the desert leg.
Money and timing close it out. The dirham is a closed currency, which means you cannot buy it before you travel in any useful quantity and should not carry it out at the end; you withdraw or exchange on arrival, and cash still runs the souks, the taxis and the tipping even where cards are accepted. On season, the interior bakes in high summer while the Atlantic coast stays breezy, so the sensible pattern is coast in summer and cities in spring, autumn or the mild European winter, which is genuinely a good time here rather than a compromise. Ramadan shifts opening hours and the rhythm of the day across the whole country, so check where it falls before fixing dates.
Q: Is there a train to Essaouira?
A: No. Marrakech is the southernmost station on the network, and Essaouira and Agadir have no rail connection at all. The coast is reached by intercity bus, in about three hours from Marrakech.
Q: How long does the desert really take from Marrakech?
A: Most of a day of driving each way to reach the main dunes, which is why it is normally sold as a three-day trip. Shorter desert tours go to a different, stonier area rather than the dunes people picture.
Q: Can you get Moroccan money before you travel?
A: Not in any useful way. The dirham is a closed currency, so you exchange or withdraw after arriving, and you should spend or convert what is left before departure.
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